Again, I had written this when it happened, and forgot to upload... so here it is!
Monday Day 10 Innamincka to Haddon Corner
Russell had organised to go birding with Michael at 6.30am so he got up at 6.00am to get ready. When he got out to meet him, Michael had been waiting half an hour already - turns out he was still working on QLD time. So Russell was quite annoyed because he could have gone earlier and was really just waiting around til 6.30 - but SA time! So silly… shows you how important communication is…
We had a quick coffee and weetbix breakfast and then Mike and Cath came over for a shower and for Mike to fix our gearstick. It turns out that the screw hadn’t dropped into the gear assembly, but that the gearstick mechanism was held together by twisting and then secured by a different type of screw that was exceptionally difficult to turn because of how small the space was. So it took forever for them to tighten the 4 screws.
This caused a bit of issue because just when Michael thought Mike was done and we were ready to go, Cath said that Mike still needed a shower, still needed breakfast etc, and Michael was getting wound up. It’s been interesting watching the dynamics between those two. They’re basically the same personality - I think enneagram 8 - but both Alpha male / Alpha female and its essentially my way or the highway. So there’s been some tension.
Finally we were able to fill up the petrol and get ready to go. Today was the day we needed to fill up the jerrycan because we were going to head out to Cordillo dam shearing shed which was another 120km round trip. So as Russell was filling it I went in and ordered a coffee. We had actually delayed our leaving time too because Karen and I wanted to go to the Innamincka Trading Post to buy some more stainless steel wineglasses, and it didn’t open until 8.30 SA time. Well anyway, once we got in there and had a look, they were renovating, and they didn’t have the range of glasses we wanted! So we bought a couple of soft drinks, and then I went and ordered the coffee and wanted to pay for the fuel. Well, that woman was slower than a wet week! Just ridiculous. All she had to do was press a button on the pod machine but no. She had to have an ongoing conversation with some blokes who had already got their coffees but were waiting for toasted sandwiches. Just ridiculous. And when we finally got it, it was disgusting. So I was upset that everyone had to wait for me, but then it turned out that Mike then needed air in the tyres… it just took forever to get out of Innamincka!
We finally set off and our first stop was the Dig Tree. This is the place that Burke, Wills, King and Gray (who died on the way) were coming back to when they were trying to find the inland route up to the Gulf. Their travelling companions were to wait there for 4 months for them, and they ended up waiting 4 months and 5 days. Then they set off - but 9 hrs later that’s when Burke and the others (without Gray who had died) got back, starving and weak. The travelling companions had left some provisions in the ground and labelled it by engraving the word “DIG” on the tree. So it was a very interesting stop.
After this we headed for Haddon Corner but we were stunned by how many vehicles there were on the road coming towards us. They were obviously returning from the Birdsville Races. It was just crazy.
Mike did a tyre on the road - the road was quite rocky in spots and a lot of bull dust, which is basically what happens when the dirt road is run over all the time - the dirt breaks down to a very fine dust which settles in holes and so on but looks like solid - so its easy to suddenly fall down a pothole and do an axle. This didn’t happen to him but he did go over a rock which punctured the tyre pretty badly. I have to say I have been very surprised just how taxing these roads can be on vehicles. We have lots of new rattles in Gertie now; and our air conditioning, despite being on recycle, still has loads of dust coming in, to the point that my chest is a bit tight. Also the air conditioning just can’t cope with this 37 degree heat or whatever it is. It’s so damn hot in the car.
We had intended on going out to Cordillo dam shearing shed (as mentioned earlier) but the road apparently hadn’t been graded so it was just not a good idea with Mike and Cath having no spare now, and I was reluctant also as I didn’t know whether I would be up to it. So we canned that idea.
We continued down the Arrabury road, which was actually pretty good now, and made our way to Haddon’s Corner. Coming into the corner we had to negotiate some sand dunes and I was pleased that Gertie handled it well - probably because Russell was driving!
The corner is literally just a dust heap and a couple of small bushes. It was so damn hot. We took the obligatory photos and were then surprised by a vehicle coming up behind us - but they were more surprised when they got out, because they thought they had been following their own convoy of white vehicles and erroneously were following us! We had a little chat with them and they showed us their rig - it was like a mini truck - and their kegs of beer in the back!
After our photo session (which included more boob shots straddling South Australia) we then set up camp. Being so hot we decided to leave the fly off. I was really not enjoying the idea of staying here - its just ridiculously hot, and it wasn’t that late in the afternoon. The guys in the truck told us Betoota is now open. Why the heck can’t we just go there? But no, Michael was keen to camp at Haddon Corner, so we finished the setting up by parking the car to offer shade on one side, and setting up by a shrub with a little bit of shade on the other.
There was a picnic area there (why?) so MIke and Cath set their rig up next to that, and we put a table cloth down on the table (because it was quite dirty with bird poo because of the zebra finches who nested in mud nests in the corner of the tin roof.
The sun set was actually quite spectacular and threw off an amazing red that almost engulfed us in a 360 degree circle. We set up some nibbles and enjoyed some time just chilling. Russell went for a bit of a bird watch.
The weather was still ridiculously hot by the time we went to bed and I struggled to go to sleep. In the wee small hours I heard a couple of dingoes howling…
Tuesday Day 11 Haddon Corner to Welford NP
I had been afraid, as we had slept without the fly on, that the sun would be streaming in on us, full bore when we woke up. I was pleasantly surprised to find that wasn’t the case! Russell got up early again to climb the sand dunes and do some birding. As soon as I awakened I packed up the tent - but of course Michael and Karen had gotten theirs down much quicker than I could.
We were a little way away from the others so we just chucked the stuff in the car and drove over to the picnic shelter where everyone was preparing breakfast. Underneath the eaves of the shelter the zebra finches have made their mud nests and I’m not gonna lie, I thought for sure they would be pooping on our table cloth or something in the night, but fortunately they didn’t.
I cooked the breakfast whilst Russell packed up the car. This has become our norm, I guess. It was just so difficult to cook, let alone eat, the breakfast - the flies are so terrible! Russell was literally fanning his plate with his knife whilst trying to eat. And I am so grateful for the fly nets we bought in Cunnamulla IGA!!
We set off from Haddon Corner and made our way to Windorah. Our first obstacle was a slippery sand dune up out of the actual corner. Whacked Gertie into 4WD, whacked her into 1st and sailed over no worries - phew! Not like there was any pressure, with Michael, Cath etc all watching! Cath was even videoing us!!
En route again we encountered quite a lot of traffic coming back from the Birdsville races. We had a 15 minute stop for roadworks on the way, and Russell got to do a little birding. Because the traffic controller (a weedy guy with wiry long blonde hair and matching beard) told us how long the wait would be, we all got out of our cars and stretched the legs - and so many of the other cars did the same. Then when he told us we had 5 minutes, we called Russell back via the walkie talkie, and all hopped in - which was the cue for everyone else to do so too. We pulled off to let about 7 4WDs overtake us so we could resume our convoy.
The walkie-talkies has been a great way to communicate with everyone in our convoy but we’ve learned that we need to get a better handset, or install a system in our car with a big aerial. It’s been very helpful to have Michael warn us of big rigs coming our way, or approaching vehicles, or big ruts in the road. It’s been great.
We made it into Windorah and what a cute little town this was. We went straight for the petrol bowser at the end of the town and there was a big queue. I had to wait behind a van and I saw a bloke trying to push in from the opposite direction, but I went over and told him we were next and fortunately he didn’t argue the point. So we filled up, and then Michael and Tony headed for the pub. I ordered coffee from the cafe and immediately regretted it. The woman serving was an Indigenous toothless wonder who clearly had all the time in the world and was in no great rush to make our coffees. No such thing as skim milk or mocha out here! If I didn’t see her with my own eyes press the pod button I’d have sworn she went out back to pick and roast the beans, she took that long!
Karen and I paid a quick visit to the corner store where I stocked up with apples, bought a hand towel and also a Windorah stainless steel wine glass.
We then went across the road to the pub and had a drink; a catch up on social media; phone calls home; and watch the coppers who were doing RBTs on the young bucks coming back from the Birdsville races. They got a fella too! Apparently he and his mate had been drinking til midnight the night before; they were both RBT’d at 12.30pm and one fella was fine, but the other one blew over. So they were taking a blood test from him. It was like Queen St mall there, no joke. So busy, a real hive of activity.
We topped up our water also at the town water point. Mike and Cath had discovered a leak in their water tank and so they needed to off load their water, fix the tank and then replace it. This gave Russell and I the opportunity to drive on ahead to Cooper’s Creek, so that he could have a quick birding opportunity and I could have a swim. Yes please! So we did. The water was just as brown as anywhere I’ve swum on this trip, but it was just so exhilarating for the spirit to be swimming in the creek near this massive road bridge. I swam under the bridge and watched a swarm of water spiders just ‘running’ away from me on the surface of the water! It was very interesting to see.
The road into Welford was a mix of sections of bitumen, and sections of dirt. It was a really well formed road, well maintained dirt road, and very wide. Either side of the road was cleared back quite a way - we weren’t sure why, only just to surmise that the land had been cleared for cattle or something - unusual for a national park though?
Wednesday Day 12 Welford NP
Today was just uncomfortably hot. Hot, hot, hot. I hate it.
I didn’t sleep very well last night - probably because it is so hot - despite again sleeping under mesh only (no fly). So I was exceptionally grumpy when I got up.
Mike, Cath, Russell and I had a swim in the morning and I took advantage of the opportunity to do a bit of washing, given it’s so hot and our clothes are quite capable of walking off on their own. Michael, Tony and Karen potted about the campsite for a bit.
We then set off in a 2 car convoy to do the Mulga Drive. Mike and Cath came with us, so we had to put the chairs back up. We decided Russell would drive, and Mike in the front, with Cath and I in the back. Oh my goodness it was ridiculously hot. Gertie’s air con unfortunately doesn’t cut it.
I really didn’t enjoy this drive. I was just too hot, and too grumpy from not having slept. We pulled up to the Sawyer River creek walk and all set off, and I just couldn’t believe how mad it was to be walking around this dirty, dusty track with no real view or purpose, in the ridiculous midday sun. Awful.
I was falling asleep in the back of the car due to how hot it was. So when Michael gave us the opportunity to return to camp for lunch, Cath, Russell, Mike and I jumped at it. Later though we found out that we could have done the River drive en route and had a swim at the jetty. When we got back to camp it was stiflingly hot - 37 degrees or something - and no breeze whatsoever. So Cath, Mike and I went for a swim just to cool down.
I spent the afternoon sleeping on my picnic blanket in the shade of Cath and Mike’s set up. Russell went birding and Michael and Tony just downed beers.
Karen wanted nibbles at 5 so we could enjoy sunset so I woke with a start when I heard them prepping it all. I came over, bleary eyed and irritable from the heat. We sat about chatting but I didn’t enjoy it so much because we are out of soft drinks almost and with the stupid Waeco situation, we have no cool drinks.
I started to heat up dinner - the second stroganoff I made at the Homestead - when the damn gas gave out. Like really? As if we hadn’t had enough gear malfunction. So I had a mini tantrum, swearing and saying that I was going home tomorrow because we were now out of gas, no bloody waeco, and it was too damn hot. Well Michael and Karen gave us one of their little Coleman gas bottles and endeavoured to calm me down. Russell of course was relatively oblivious and didn’t really do much, which I found really upsetting. I heated up the stroganoff and everyone except Cath and Mike had some. They tried to tell me it was tasty but I was just too upset over the bloody gas situation!
Went to bed around 9.30-10.00pm but it was still so damn hot… and my air bed had obviously heated up in the sun - so another sleepless night for me…
Thursday Day 13 Welford NP to Idalia NP
I didn’t sleep so well last night (again!) so when I woke up I wasn’t in the best mood unfortunately. This then meant that I took it out again on Russell, which I really wish I hadn’t. I would really like to get better with this.
Russell got up around 7 and went birding, which wasn’t helpful because we really needed to get up and pack up. So I was a bit annoyed as I got up and tried to pack everything up. Michael ended up coming over and helping with the last bit of the tent pack up.
Because I’m concerned about the gas situation, I’m very reluctant to boil water or spend too long cooking things, so we used Michael and Karen’s boiled water for coffee, and I cooked our bacon and eggs on low (and runny eggs!) to try to conserve it. Russell farted about trying to pack up the car and was getting shirty about the chairs and so on - reckoning he couldn’t pack the car until he put them in - but we needed them to sit on! So a little disagreement there.
Wood’s were packed up first so they headed off to the River circuit because they wanted to swim on the jetty (which isn’t really a jetty, just a pile of rocks jutting out into the water). We weren’t far behind them (just waited a few minutes for Michael to finish packing up) and then we were off on the circuit too. When we got there Woody was already in the water (stark naked again- what is it with that man getting his kit off all the time?) and he asked if I was going to get in. I had decided not to as we didn’t really have time but Michael said I did have so I did a quick 5 minute swim. It was again muddy looking but refreshing. Fastest swim I’ve had yet.
Then we set off for Idalia. I was getting concerned about our water situation - as we have almost used 10 litres and we only have 20 left - and 3 more nights out bush with no drinking water - but Cath worked out we would be going through Yaraka and according to the refidex, there’s supposedly fuel and a pub there. So if we’re able to get that, we should be able to get more water. Russell needs more soft drinks anyway so I was hoping we would be able to buy those (albeit at a premium price).
As we came into Yaraka we were stopped by 2 Emus criss-crossing the road in front of Wood’s. It was quite amusing and I got a bit of video. According to a sign at the pub the Emus names are Kevin and Carol! We saw a sign on the door of the Post Office come petrol station and it said they were open between 9-11 on a Tuesday and Thursday only - and it was 1055 on a Thursday! So we quickly asked the bloke (a rather rotund but pleasant man in an exceptionally dirty Columbia shirt) we saw wandering around the back if it was open and he was the owner - he said come back in 30 minutes as he had some things to do. This suited Michael to a T as it meant he could legitimately enjoy some time in the pub.
The pub was a typical cute little outback pub with Australiana decorating the walls. The publicans were an older man and woman, very friendly, and they were surprised to hear we were getting fuel as they said there was a problem there with Energex. Turns out they meant the IOR or something across the road. Anyway, we enjoyed catching up with internet and social media. Russell got an email to say Roma St has no asbestos and we should have the house demolished by the end of next week - yay!
After our drinks stop we went back and fuelled up. This was the cheapest fuel we’ve paid for the whole trip! $1.75 per litre - so we got 40 litres for $70! Awesome. We were going to buy a new LPG gas bottle as the bloke had swop and go bottles there - but the smallest he had was 9l and it was $80, so no thanks.
We then topped up the water at the caravan park around the back of the pub, and then set off to Mt Slocombe - a copper had popped into the pub whilst we were there and recommended going up it. It’s a very steep drive up (Gertie in first gear!) but wow, the view from the top was totally worth it. 360 degree view of the surrounding countryside. There were a couple little jutting out bits (fenced off) but I climbed out on them to get better views, much to Russell’s chagrin.
Then it was off to Idalia NP. The road into the NP was of course dirt, but this was the first dirt track where the ruts were really quite deep, so we were scraping the bottom of the car on the top of the ruts. The car slips and slides around a bit if you’re trying to drive out of the rut.
We arrived at Monk’s tank campground - its a very pleasant setting right by the Monk’s tank dam, which is fenced off to wildlife. This is the first water we’ve swum in on this trip that was actually quite clean looking. Cath, Mike, Russell and I had a lovely afternoon swim (although initially it was Cath, Mike and myself, and a bit uncomfortable as they enjoyed a little ‘alone’ time - I said I was going to get Russell because there were lots of birds and Cath announced that something had already removed her bikini top. Vom.).
Then we enjoyed a very pleasant sundowner time sitting under the gazebo - although as I write this my hands and legs are covered still in flies and I have my fly net on my head. Russell has managed to get the gas sort of going again - he said there was dirt in the pipe - we’ll see if it lasts…
It’s not so hot here just now so hopefully it won’t be so hot tonight - I might have a chance to actually sleep….
Friday Day 14 Idalia NP (Good Friday)
I’m sure we did something - but I didn’t write anything… oops…!
Saturday Day 15 Idalia NP to Hellhole Gorge NP
We awoke around 6.30am this morning and Michael and Karen had already pulled their tent down. It had been actually very cold last night, and I had woken up in the night and put on my fleece AND a long sleeved shirt - first time for the whole trip! And I was still a little bit too cold. Oh well.
Because Michael and Karen were already packing up, we were a bit rushed and panicked, so we couldn’t have pancakes this morning but had to have weetbix. We managed to pack everything up by around 8.30 and set off. The other campers in our area were packing up too, which was a bit surprising - this is a place that requires more than one night in my opinion.
Mike and Cath had set off for the Homestead and Wave Rock walk as they didn’t do that yesterday, and the plan was we would meet them around 9am at the Junction. Once we were all together, we set off in convoy for Blackall, some 140kms away - but this took us 2 hrs to get there, when you drive to the conditions. The road out obviously was the same one in, so there were deep ruts and we scraped the bottom of the car a few times.
We arrived in Blackall and it was literally all stations go. Toilet stop, coffee, fuel, wash the windscreen, pick up a few groceries, get some more water - it was everyone for themselves and Russell and I had to divvy up the jobs to get it done in time. In the end Michael, who had said he wasn’t going to stop at the pub, actually did - so we were able to get some quick messages from home and make a few calls. All we have had on this trip has been Telstra connection, which fortunately I have - but it means when we arrive anywhere with connection, people frantically hotspot off me. I don’t mind though.
We didn’t arrive in Blackall til around 11.30 and we certainly weren’t out before 12.30. The next section of the journey was to Adavale (210kms) and that road was pretty hit and miss some of the time. It was good til the border of Quilpie shire, and then it was pretty ordinary. I hit a few divots in the road a few times!
We arrived in Adavale desperate for the loo and were pretty surprised that there really isn’t anything there. There’s an airstrip, and that’s it. We drove through the Main Street of town and nary a public loo to be seen. Thought there might be one at the pub but surprisingly the pub was closed and there was a sign on the door suggesting the pub might open again in May - but it might not. There was a toilet around the back - with the gender designation being ‘flip dry’ or ‘drip dry’ - so we took advantage of that.
The last stretch to Hellhole Gorge was some 70kms and the dirt road here was a lot worse. There were also 2 creek crossings, one of which was pretty big. It was so big and wide that I walked across it so we could find where the actual road was, and whether it was too deep. Fortunately we were all able to make it over.
We arrived at the campsite which is basically very hard rock, few trees, and a bit of scrub bushes, but they’re all very small. We tried to set up Michael’s awning but we couldn’t hammer the pegs in so we gave up. The campsite is on a hill overlooking the actual gorge - which is quite beautiful. We made our way over to the billabong where there is a small waterfall down the gorge, and then another billabong underneath. Had a quick swim and then hurried back to the camp to watch the sunset. It was very beautiful and particularly cool that just as the sun set, the moon rose. It is very pleasant here.
Day 16 Charleville; Day 17 drive home
Another day I didn't write anything. But we drove to Charleville and stayed the night at the Charleville hotel, which I recall was very pleasant.
Then we drove 750kms home the next day!!
A great adventure was had in western Queensland, would thoroughly recommend a trip out here...!
