Planes, planes, planes… 40 hrs from Brisbane to San Sebastian

Well that has got to have been one of the longest journeys I’ve ever taken. 

We left Brisbane at 955am on Thursday and arrived 40 hours later in San Sebastián, flying with Etihad. I have no idea how come we had to go this way but oh boy. The first leg was from Brisbane to Melbourne, then a 3 hr layover which we spent in the Virgin lounge. The second leg, from Melbourne to Abu Dhabi, took 14 hrs. I watched several movies on this leg, including “American Underdog” - it was ok but the funniest part was the bit where they were in a bar with country music playing, and the line being sung was “all she’s got to do is give me that wink” - but in the broad US country accent, ‘wink’ sounded like ‘wank’ and gave the song a whole new meaning!

I don’t mind Etihad airlines - the planes have this funky lighting system which allegedly helps with jet lag (basically the lights are a soft blue, soft yellow, soft green…) and I think maybe it works. Either that or the diazepam I took to help sleep…

We transitted through Abu Dhabi, my first time at that airport, and I could not believe how packed it was at that time of night. Or early morning. It was madness. We decided to use Russell’s Virgin Gold card and go to the lounge, and even that was completely bonkers and full. Finally found a bar stool to sit on, had a coffee and a shower and started to feel human again.

Our flight left around 3am and was another 7 hrs until we arrived in Madrid. This was the bit I was most concerned about - not just clearing customs, but clearing covid customs, because Spain does not recognise the Australian international covid vaccination certificate. As a result you have to fill in a special form 72hrs prior to arrival in Spain, and then you could be tested when you get there. Because I developed a raging cold a couple of days ago, and the symptoms got infinitely worse on the plane, I was concerned. I needn’t have worried - we just presented the QR code and then were waved through.

Our final leg was barely an hour, to San Sebastián. I had been concerned all along (with due cause of course, having had my luggage not arrive before), about our luggage arriving - so I put my AirTags in the bags so I could track them. It worked a treat! We could see that our bags made it to every place we transitted through. Russell’s bags arrived up the conveyor belt and I thought “excellent”, they’re here. But mine didn’t arrive. The airtag said though that they were with me - they were not - but eventually the AirTag said they were moving, and sure enough, they arrived.

We got a taxi (that was another palaver, people in Spain don’t queue) to the Hotel Ibis. Its nice enough, and we have 2 nights here. We had to quickly repack my bag which we are shipping to Santiago. It was damn heavy (14.7kg) and I had to carry it 2 km into town on my back. That felt like 20km by the time we got to the Correos office! We then managed to ship the bag with no hassles to Santiago.

Searched for some dinner but forgot that Spaniards don’t eat dinner before 9pm and we were so very tired! So spot the gringo hey. Enjoyed some croquettes and then it was time to return to the hotel…slept very well indeed!

Green Gully Track Day 5 (day 4 trekking) Colwell's to Cedar Creek Lodge

 Well as expected it was an absolutely freezing night! The fire did absolutely nothing to stop the cold because without the deflectors it just goes straight up the chimney. Not even standing a centimetre from it could you feel any heat. Even Michael admitted it was the coldest night he had endured. There was frost on the grass in the morning. We were just soooo cold! I had everything I brought with me on - puffer, thermals, tracksuit, fleece, gloves (2 pairs!), 2 pairs of socks, a sleeping bag liner, my beanie - AND I had my waterproof jacket as an added liner - AND I was still FREEZING. Physically shivering.

We went to sleep at 830pm and I was awake again at 1030. The fire had died so I put more wood on it, but of course it did no good. 

So as a result we didn't get up before 730am, which put us eventually starting at 930am. In fact it was warmer outside the hut to have breakfast than in it. I am over the 'heritage' experience. Knock the huts down and put up something with properly sealed floors, insulated walls, nowhere for antechinus to get in, proper food storage and better crockery - not rusted tin!

Once we set off it was essentially straight up - all day! Such a gruelling slog. 600m incline in the first 3 km. But most frustrating was the fact you go up, then down, then up, then down - why the down if we have 1100m to climb out of the gully?! So annoying.

I was absolutely exhausted. Karen and Russell and I walked together pretty much the whole time, except for the very end. Karen's feet were absolutely killing her, so she was slower than normal, and stopped much more frequently.

We had agreed to wait for Michael at the junction, which was 7kms in. We got there (I was first) in 3 hrs. We started to have lunch and then the ranger's vehicle came flying up in a dust storm towards us.Turns out they were heading down to Colwell's to restock the wood (just as well as its nearly all out!). We told them to look out for Michael. Next thing we knew they were back - with Michael! He stopped for a break and we set off to do the final 10kms.

About 5kms in, I was in the lead, when I heard the ranger vehicle again. Yup - it was Michael! He'd walked about 2kms and they'd picked him up again. he took my pack and I walked the final 5kms back. Still lots of ups! Oy ve.

I arrived at 3.10pm having done the 7 1/2 hr walk in just over 5 1/2 hrs. Karen turned up 10 minutes laster and Russell another 25 after that. 

The cottage is quite nice - shower sort of warm, but welcome after 4 days. The combustion store is a cracker and we are very nicely warm. The cottage is surrounded by lots of wallabies and joeys. We are enjoying a lovely meal of steaks and a great relax after a lovely walk.

Despite the cold and the dodginess of the huts, this has been an absolutely brilliant walk! 65kms in 4 days....

Green Gully Track Day 4 (day 3 trekking) Green Gully to Colwell's Hut

 We had a comfortable night in Green Gully hut. The fireplace there was fantastic! Also can I say the toilets have been very good on this trek. Toilet paper provided and the doors actually lock. I liked that the Green Gully hut has an old stockyard next to it. All these huts on this track are 'heritage' - they were owned by farming families who then later sold them to the NPWS. One observation about the 'heritage' aspect - they take it to extremes. Like I understand they want to preserve the huts - but there's preserving them but making them useful, or preserving them and making them inhabitable. The Green Gully hut had a calendar from October 1971! The tin huts are not insulated and the fire places are ineffective (except at Green Gully hut) because they haven't got any deflectors. 

Anyway, no obvious antechinus visits last night thankfully. We set off at 8.25am and immediately headed down a small hill to the creek, where we basically stayed all day. The first creek crossing was freezing. I have my old ASICS and my feet were comfortable from rocks but numb from cold. Poor Karen was shivering! We had worn shorts because long wet trousers all day is very unpleasant. There were apparently 35 creek crossings and I think we had 100! It was madness (actually Michael counted 38).

At about the 4th creek crossings we were lucky to spy some endangered brush tailed rock wallabies high up the rocks. They are so cute.

Fortunately the creek crossings weren't too deep (not as deep as we'd read they could be) - at most just above the knee. But some were quite fast flowing. Generally the rocks weren't too slippery which was good. Michael almost face planted in one particularly deep bit. He has struggled and requested at least 2 breaks, quite lengthy each time - which is completely unheard of for him - but this allowed us a nice morning tea break and a beautiful lunch spot, which we appreciated.

When we hit the gorge we had to choose between about 5 kms of bush bash or walk in the creek. For the most part we were able to stick to the banks, criss-crossing the river, but we did have some walking up the creek. 

it seemed an eternity before we hit the '4km' sign and the road. This 'so-called' road went on forever - and trust me, no vehicle has been down it for a while! It was sad to see too the damage that deer have done - the road was really chopped up. More criss-crossing of the creek, then finally we got the "Colwell's hut 150m" sign. Yay! Straight up a hill. Not yay.

This hut is miniscule. Its a joke. I have no idea how 6 beds fit in here. It's the tiniest of the lot and the fireplace is crap. There's an outdoor shed, so we moved 2 beds out just so we could have some room.

Tonight's dinner is re-hydrated Butter chicken. Last night's re-hydrated Moroccan lamb was nice so hopefully this will be too.

Anticipating another very cold night... forecast was for -1 in Yarrowitch... gonna be colder than that here...

Green Gully Track Day 3 (day 2 trekking): Bird's Nest to Green Gully Hut

 Well last night was absolutely freezing. I have never been so cold in my life. The fireplace was pretty ordinary in that hut. To be honest that whole hut was pretty ordinary. The meat locker (the one on top) was broken so we could only use one. The dishes were just stacked around the burner and the meat locker so they were out for the antechinus and the rats to run all over. We didn't trust their cleanliness. If I was to do this trek again I would do like Michael and Karen and bring my own mug and plate. But the worst was how bad the fire was. It didn't draw any heat into the room! If you were just centimetres from it you got some heat, but otherwise, any further back, and you got nothing. And you had to set the fire in the back right hand corner of the fire place or the hut filled with smoke. I guess I would have preferred smoke because that would mean something was getting into the room!

The solar powered light turned off after 2 hours but (little known secret) - it restarted! The hut is very basic and the tin walls have lots of holes. We spotted one antechinus hunting around Michael's pack and Karen heard something in the night attempting to get into a pack. I was so cold so I didn't sleep much.

We set off at 8.30am and it was an immediate up. Today is our "off track" day - bush bash. Well it really wasn't. There's been that many people on the track that the path was quite worn. We headed straight up the hill which was a rude shock to the system. In the whole day we climbed just under 500m and descended about 1000m. Today was a tough day!

Karen and I soon were ahead but Russell not too far behind. Michael however was really struggling. By the time we got to the Trig point he had really had enough.

When we arrived at the Green Gully lookout we went up for a look. It was brilliant - wonderful views - and I got out as far as I could on the ledge (as I am wont to do). We were there for a little while then Russell arrived just as we were leaving. So I went up with him. Michael arrived 40 minutes after we did.

The 3 of us set off for the Rocks lookout 1km away. By now the sun was, well, sort of warm - it was freezing on the way up to the Trig!

The descent from the Rocks was the absolute killer! We were so tired and it was so steep and slippery. I fell a couple of times. Some times I just slid down on my bottom, it was soooo slippery and dangerous.

It took forever to descend and my legs were killing. And just when you thought you were over the tough bit, there would be a little ascent too. Then a super steep descent. It was so bad that I had to give Karen a pole, and she never uses one!

Finally we were down and the stupid sign said still 1.5km to the hut! This section criss crosses Brumby creek - we managed to do it without getting wet feet but it was tricky at spots - we had to put rocks in the water or slide along logs.

We arrived to the hut (after yet another up!!) at 3.40pm - such a long day!! Russell arrived 30 minutes later but still no sign of Michael.

This hut is great, very clean. The fireplace here is really good too - just as good as Cedar creek. Russell got it going just as it started to rain - but still no Michael - and now it was after 5, getting dark, and he didn't have a head torch. So Karen went back to the creek to look for him. I went after her and we decided we would need to go back for head torches and boots and go look for him, and just as we were gearing up, he appeared. We were quite relieved.

A very pleasant evening was spent about the fire. It's really quite cosy. Now hoping for no antechinus tonight...

Green Gully Track Day 2 (day 1 of trekking) - Cedar Creek Cottage to Bird's Nest Hut

 I awoke in the middle of the night needing the usual potty stop and I was surprised that I was quite warm - the fire clearly doing its job. Then I couldn't get back to sleep until the wee small hours. So I was not thrilled when I was awoken by Russell at 6am dropping his boot loudly in the room!

We discovered we had been visited by Antechinus in the night as there were little droppings on the bench. Lucky we put the food in the meat safe!

Cooked up a fabulous breakfast of bacon, mushroom and tomato omelette then we transported our food for the final night to the fridge of the Cedar Creek Cottage. Moved the cars and then set off. Today's walk was supposed to be 17kms and 6.5hrs but Karen and I did it in just over 5 hrs.

The day was a lot of ups, flats, and downs - "undulations" as Michael would say - but some of the ups were quite steep! We pretty much didn't really stop - only to wait for Michael. The first time we waited 15 minutes and the 2nd was 30 minutes - the hills were really getting him today.

The trail was along an old 4wd track so the walking was easy - just heavy. My pack weighs 15kg at least - with no tent, gas, cooking utensils - they're all provided - so imagine what it would be if we were properly thru-hiking!

It's been cold today but I still managed to walk in just thermal merino top, with waterproof for wind chill whenever we stop. Karen and I arrived at Bird's nest hut at 1.40pm after a long, steep, slippery descent. The hut is adequate - 6 camp beds, a fire place, a rusty old meat fridge and a slightly better one. We read through the visitors book and read lots of stories about antechinus visits and 'Jimmy the bush rat' so we're a bit less than enthused about tonight's prospects!

Currently enjoying the last bit of daylight through the skylight by the fire before we turn on the solar powered light, which only lasts 2 hrs. It's pretty cold here tonight!

Green Gully Track Day 1: The drive to Cedar Creek Cottage

 We left home Sunday morning at 6am after not having had much sleep. Packing was quite a drama because my new trekking pack - Osprey Ariel 85 - is ENORMOUS - and the frame goes half way up my head! Given my Lowe Alpine pack died this meant I had no other option - I didn't want to take this new pack because then I can't return it - so poor Russell had to do a mercy run out to Damo's to get my old (and heavy - 2.5kg!) Kathmandu Vardo pack.

This meant I was up very late packing (story of my life!). So when my alarm went off, I was most unimpressed.

I slept most of the way to Warwick, where we got coffee at the Coffee club. This coffee is DISGUSTING!! Then I got a text from Karen to say they were in Warwick - so we were ahead of them - but eventually they got ahead because I needed to pick up a prescription in Armadale which was an absolute pain.

The woman didn't want to give me all the repeats and I need them for the upcoming Camino - eventually she agreed to fill it. So I sat and waited. And waited. And waited. And went up to see what the progress was only to find out they hadn't even started, because it was going to cost more than $400 (which I knew!) - and they hadn't bothered to check with me, they just didn't fill it. So another 10 minutes went by whilst they did.

We met Michael and Karen in Uralla at the Top Pub for lunch. We sat by the fire which was very pleasant and enjoyed a great meal.

Next stop was Walcha for last minute groceries, and top up of fuel, and then it was on to Cedar Creek cottage. We arrived at 4.30pm. It's a cute little hut - quite well equipped, with a combustion fire, saucepan, frypan, 2 burner stove, flushing toilet, shower, and 6 beds. The hut is solar powered.

Cheese and crackers sufficed for dinner after our big lunch and then we sat around the fireplace and chatted. It's actually quite cold so I've re-evaluated my wardrobe for the trek. Chucked the thermals and gone with tracksuit bottoms. I've had a look at our food too - Russell's packed a kilo of Clif bars! I'll take them from him but even so my bag is 14kgs - so this will be painful....

Made it til 9 and then off to bed - tomorrow is a big day!