
In my last post we had just arrived in Fes and checked into the first hotel we found. This was Hotel Cascade, which surprisingly is mentioned in the Lonely Planet - and which for once had a very accurate description - which was, that the bathrooms and toilets look like they need a much more regular mopping. I wish we'd actually read that before we decided to stay there...
We dumped our stuff in our room which was quite small, had a dodgy lock, and a small and narrow view out the window of the main road into the souqs. We quickly headed off as we were anxious to capitalise on any daylight left to explore the medina, and find some dinner. The guide book had said that Fes was the place to buy artisan products - pottery, carpets and so on - but to be honest all we could see at first in the market was everyday sort of toiletry type items, some pirated DVDs / CDs, and a load of unfashionable clothes. It was quite obvious that in this souq, the market was a local one, not one for tourists - it actually wasn't until late the next day that we found that sort of market.
We were again trying to decipher the Lonely Planet mud map in the quest for food, and eventually we found a place that we wanted to try but some dodgy Aussie bird offered in her unwanted two cents worth and told us (like we'd never travelled anywhere before!) that we shouldn't go down that particular alleyway because it was too dark... whatever... but we turned back anyway as the restaurant actually looked closed.
So we made our way back towards the hotel, hoping to find food there, and we found a couple of little restaurants at the very start of the souqs, where we enjoyed the delights of lamb tajine, the funny little sausage things, and more mint tea. Then it was off to the hotel for a shower and bed.
This was the point that I wished we had read the Lonely Planet beforehand, because the showers, although nice and warm, were actually quite minging, and also, there was a dodgy triangular window in the door right at head height, so you could look into the shower and see what was going on! Fortunately I managed to maneouvre my towel into a gap in the wooden frame around the window so I could wash my hair without the whole of the hotel enjoying the entertainment.
I then went back to the room and found Jessie, mouth agape in sheer horror - she'd found a pube on her bed! Clearly the sheets hadn't been properly cleaned... so I grabbed my tweezers and Operation Pube Extraction commenced... once over I got into my bed and discovered that the mattress was as flat as a pancake and as hard as rock! The pillow, a very long, cylindrical type thing, was also rock hard. Oh boy, not going to get a good night's sleep here then!
And boy was I right, for about 10 minutes later, I was suddenly aware of a commotion outside the window, and looked out - only to see about 4 or 5 builders working on the verandah below - which they did for much of the night!

The next morning we checked out of that hotel and went and found somewhere much better. Then, we
headed off for one of the many museums in Fes. This one has a glorious garden, it was really quite magnificent, and lots of beautiful tiles and painted wood. A real little oasis!
We then went off in search of the fruit and vege market, as Jessie needed to buy a pickled lemon for her Mum. It took quite some time to find, which wasn't so bad on account of the fact that we really did get to see quite a lot in Fes, but we were very lucky as we only just made it before the market closed.
After this we went in search of the fixed price Ensemble Artisans. Do you think we could find it? First of all, chuck away the Lonely Planet, as you're more likely to end up in another country using that, and second of all, don't bother to ask for directions because the locals can't read the crappy Lonely Planet or read the names of the few streets it actually shows named. We asked so many people where this place and went up and down, up and down, up and down various streets until by sheer dumb luck we actually found it.
There were some very lovely objects there, well crafted - and the advantage of it all was that there was no bargaining - it's all fixed price.
After this, we were so shattered that we had to succomb to the joys of the petit taxi to get back to the hotel to chill out for a bit, before heading out in search of a nice restaurant - Le Medina - which had got a good review in the Lonely Planet - but which of course we couldn't find because of the crappy map. Eventually we got there, getting directions from locals - but the last person we asked for directions, a policeman, said "I hope you have a reservation" - which got us a bit panicky as of course we hadn't. Turns out this restaurant is one of those that put on Moroccan entertainment - for a hefty price (in Moroccan terms) - so they always have lots of large tour groups and so on - but fortunately we were able to get in. I have to tell you, the food was just glorious. The price was about £30 each including the show, and for that you got huge dishes of gorgeous starters - a broadbean and garlic concoction that was simply divine, a ratatouille, olives, cauliflower and peppers... oh it was divine. Then the second course, well. Jessie had a lamb tagine and I had a chicken pastilla - this pastry thing with chicken and fruit mince - so you got, as our waiter described, a taste of 'sad and sweet' all at once. Then the desserts - Moroccan pastries - oh yum! Plus mint tea...
Then there was the floor show. There were 4 musicians - a violinist (with an octave doubler), a oud player, a guy on tambourine and a guy on darabouka - they were incredible. Especially the guy on darabouka... Then out came the drummers, who played like a tambour I guess but they were incredible, they were dancing around with it, spinning the drum over their heads - then the oldest bloke, who was playing an instrument like the scissors - he obviously wasn't as agile as the others but he did hop on one foot whilst playing! Then there was the belly dancer (who was as old as the lady from Driving Miss Daisy - well not quite... but her idea of dancing was to get all the fellas up one at a time and make idiots of them - and herself!). They had a magician, another belly dancer (but she was much younger and much better than the old bird) - and then some wierd dressing up thing where they dressed up 3 people from the audience and then these old ladies put them in a round tray thing and lifted them up over their heads - very odd...
All in all though it was an absolutely amazing evening, such wonderful food, glorious entertainment - and then we had a lovely surprise. We asked our waiter for the bill, and he took absolutely forever - but when he came back, he'd managed to convince the manager to give us a discount - and instead of paying some £70 for the two of us, it cost only £40 - a pretty good saving, eh?
We went back to the hotel very happy and very contented...what a lovely evening!