The Leader Of The Pack

We had another early morning start today as we needed to leave at 8am for our bus ride to Hue. It was a bit harrowing for B though as she had ordered yesterday another dress from a different tailor who had promised to deliver by 730 and who had not. So we were loading the bus and still the dress hadn't arrived. Fortunately B called them and they managed to get it there just before we left.

We stopped off enroute at the Marble palace which was actually quite interesting. There's a really cool cave there which although not filled with stalagmites and stalagtites, is very spacious. Theres a bunch of buddhist statues at the entrance into the cavernous space, which are apparently good and bad demons - a silly concept obviously as all demons are bad - but the carvings were interesting. As we left the area our leader Vaughn told us the story of buddha - quite frankly I don't get why anyone would follow that stuff but there you go.

Back on the bus then for a couple of hours journey to Hue. The scenery was mostly the same - rice field, water buffalo, speeding scooters, overloaded bicycles, run down shanty town houses, altars in the middle of the field etc. We had a short stop at Hai Van pass, which once was a checkpoint for the Americans during the Vietnam war. Offering spectacular views when the weather is right, today was overcast and all too often the waft of urine would float past, so it wasn't exactly my favourite spot. Eventually we arrived in Hue.

The first impression we had of Hue is that it is HOT! Boiling hot. And very humid. Having arrived around lunchtime we quickly checked into our hotel, Tigon Hotel, which was alright - the first we've had that had a bath as well as a shower, and then Vaughn took us to lunch at the famous Mandarin cafe.

The food at the Mandarin cafe was ok, nothing spectacular, but the service was very quick. The reason though that the Mandarin cafe is quite famous is because it's owner, Mr Cu, is a very good photographer. He takes photos of locals and scenes in Hue and then sells them (quite cheaply too). They also organise motorbike tours of the city for about $4?, so we all booked one. The guides arranged to pick us up back at the hotel a little later so we made our way back in order to freshen up. It was just so terribly hot walking back though!

At 2.40 pm we met our guides outside the hotel and then the 6 of us set off on motorbikes. Each bike had a driver and a tourist sat on the back. What a sight we must have made! Particularly once we headed out into the traffic (which is madness, I tell you - how we weren't killed I really don't know), and you've got Westerners sat on the back of the bike clinging on for grim death with one hand, video cam / camera the other frantically recording the countryside, scenery and each other as it all literally whooshes by. Couple times I thought I was going to be hit by locals screeching past us, or when we crossed the river on a very narrow, one lane bridge, and my driver had trouble trying to steer in a straight line, so he kept banging into the rails. It was an awesome experience, and one I would highly recommend (but only in Hue or Hoi An!).

The bikers took us to the Tien Mu Pagoda, which was quite pretty. We went to have a look inside but there were signs saying it was for worshippers only - however a load of tourists were indoors. There was a young boy there who was clearly a trainee monk or something (I feel sorry for him) and it was his job to chuck the tourists out. He approached this one very large American who didn't quite get it, and then who tried to pat the kid on his head, which is a very big no-no here, and the boy was most alarmed and tried frantically to get out of the way!

Back on the bikes, we travelled further along the Perfume river. The bikers clearly have a set order because Shanty's guy, who seemed to be the leader of the pack, always went first, and my guy, who was an older, quieter sort, almost always brought up the rear. Made for somewhat boring video for me...

They took us to an old arena which we were told was used as a fighting ring for elephants vs tigers, for the amusement of the king and queen. There is also a graveyard nearby for the elephants. It was interesting. They then took us through the backstreets of the countryside where we observed everyday life, from washing "hanging" (rather, resting) on bushes, to rice fields, sidewalk stalls, kids playing in school grounds, people going about their everyday business and so on. Then they took us to see incense sticks being made, before going to see one of the old bunkers from the war. Actually the bunker area was site interesting, as the guide showed us the view past the river and outlined the devastation that had taken place there 30 years ago due to Agent Orange.

Our final stop was the rice museum, which although it was closed, is approached by a cute little Japanese bridge upon which we found some gorgeous little boys playing. They were dancing and singing for us, and smiling for lots of photos - and surprisingly didn't ask for money. It was very sweet.

All too soon it was time to head back to the hotel, as dusk was falling. What a fabulous trip that was!