Camino Portuguese Day 5: Rabaçal to Coimbra allegedly 28km actually 32.4km
Well today was another great day but boy was it tough! On paper it shouldn’t have been as hard as it was, but the reality was very different.
The problem for me was I didn’t get any sleep last night in the Albergue. Whilst I had earplugs etc to cope with the snorers, because we had been given the very last beds, which were top bunks, and because the room was quite small but crowded with some 10 or so beds, it was just unbearably hot for me. So I really didn’t sleep at all. And everyone gets up at 5:30am and noisily gets ready for the day.
We set off then very early, sans breakfast, with the intent of getting it in the first town. That turned out to be 11kms and 3 hours away! However at about the 6km mark, just outside of Fonte Corbeta, we came across a “self-service” rest stop. Basically 2 pilgrims had set up a tea, coffee and biscuits station, and you just gave a little donation. Their whole property was very interesting - their residence is a caravan; they have some tents set up for pilgrims if they need; they’ve built their own chapel for pilgrims to pray for peace; and the yard is covered in Camino de Santiago bric a brac. We had a cuppa there and as we were leaving, the guy came over and then read us today’s daily blessing. He then said he would walk with us for a bit through the town (barefoot, mind you!) and as he did, he told us a bit about it including explaining some of the home altars that some houses had in front; he introduced us to a guy making wine from his own grapes; and he basically gave us a mini sermon. Russell described him as a Catholic mystic. 
He continued to walk with us a short way out of the village, and then he asked if he could give us a blessing, which we agreed. Next minute he was on the ground, holding my feet and praying a blessing over them, kissed them, and then did the same for Russell. Then he sang us the Hymn of the Angel of Portugal. Russell gave him the traditional blessing (The Lord bless you and keep you) and then we were on our way. It was all actually quite special.
We eventually made it to Conimbriga, where we had a lovely brunch at a restaurant at the top of the hill. There we met a pilgrim from Ireland, Kevin, as well as a German couple (who we actually had seen at our albergue) who were travelling with their newborn son! They took it in turns to wear him swaddled whilst the other one pushed the pram. Wow. Tough gig.
The rest of the walk was quite uneventful - forest walking giving way eventually to more industrial landscape as we approached Coimbra. This last part of the journey took forever! The killer was, once we arrived in Coimbra, we still had some 4kms to get to our accommodation, including a lengthy and challenging trek through the botanic gardens. Suffice to say we were very glad to finally arrive. 
Had an amazing dinner at the restaurant next door, and now we are completely had it..!
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